![]() “And so, when we came here,” she said, “my sense was that the toaster oven was this amazing thing that could sit on your counter and it's this replacement for a brazier, which you would otherwise have in the motherland…because you can cook so quickly in a toaster oven.”Īnother example of this control is one I learned from my mom. ![]() What you would see there, in homes and on the street, where food vendors don’t have access to a gas line or electricity, are charcoal-fueled braziers. Home kitchens in Vietnam don’t have ovens in the way that we think of them-just a couple of burners. Nguyen explained that toaster ovens have a particular significance for Vietnamese refugees like her who fled to the States. And you slide it in the toaster oven and then it crisps up in less than six minutes at 350º or 375º, and it's just the right temperature and the right crispness for you to make your sandwich.” It’s a sheet pan, my friends!Ĭookbook author (and Epi contributor) Andrea Nguyen passed me a trick for heating up the bread for bánh mì: “You just rub a little water on the outside of your bread-it has to be inexpensive supermarket ‘French’ bread. You can do half-batches of brownies in there, or shortbread, or fruit crisps, or sheet cakes, using that baking tray that comes with your toaster oven. But she’s only one pro I know who believes in the toaster oven. And anything you haven’t thought of? She’s done it too. Relying solely on this appliance taught Kleiman “to cook things sequentially and quickly,” she told me, admitting that the first wave of panic hit at Thanksgiving when she was confronted with the challenge of cooking the turkey she ended up barbecuing her bird outside, but the toaster oven took care of everything else.Īnything you’ve ever thought of cooking in your toaster oven, Kleiman’s done it (spatchcocked chicken, whole heads of cauliflower, even pies). I was just so psyched to see the toaster oven used in that way and by two people I admired for their work, integrity, and knowledge. That was a major highlight for me, and I don’t even like knishes. Maybe you saw the third episode of the first season of the Netflix series U gly Delicious, wherein Kleiman and the late Los Angeles Times food critic Jonathan Gold made knishes together at her house with her toaster oven. Instead, she does everything in her toaster oven. Remarkably, with all of that, she has lived oven-free for nearly three decades. She’s hosted KCRW’s Good Food since 1997 her eight cookbooks on Italian food have held up just as well. Evan Kleiman opened Angeli Caffe in Los Angeles in 1984 and closed it 28 years later. Sonja and I are not the only believers in the supremacy of the toaster oven.
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